π Why It Happens:
When you start the engine, there’s a voltage drop in the carβs electrical system (even just for a split second). Cheap or unbuffered cameras canβt handle that and just stop working or reset.
Or, if you’re powering the camera directly from the reverse light, that circuit isn’t stable enough during engine cranking.
π§ Fixes & Solutions
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1. Power Camera from a Stable Source
Donβt power your camera directly from the reverse light wire. Instead:
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Tap reverse light wire only for the trigger signal (to tell the head unit to switch to camera view)
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Power the camera from a 12V accessory source that remains stable when the engine starts (e.g. fuse box, radio ACC wire)
π Optional: Use a relay setup:
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2. Use a Delay/Filter Module (Cheap & Effective)
Install a 12V delay or filter module (a.k.a. “voltage stabilizer”) inline with the camera power. This little box stores energy in a capacitor and prevents the camera from rebooting during voltage dips.
π These modules cost like β¬5-10 and can be life savers for these types of issues.
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3. Check Grounding
Bad grounding can also cause this β make sure:
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4. Use a Better Camera
Some cheap aftermarket cameras are super sensitive to power fluctuation. If you’ve tried everything and it still crashes on engine start:
π οΈ Wiring Recap (Recommended):
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Camera RED (power): Connect to stable 12V (e.g. radio ACC or via relay)
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Camera BLACK (ground): Ground to chassis
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Camera trigger wire (from reverse light): Goes to head unit “reverse-in” or trigger pin
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Video signal (RCA): Goes to the head unit camera input